Guns for Jews v5.0 Now Available

The latest version of my free PDF book Guns for Jews v5.0 is now available!

Version 5.0 brings an increased emphasis on revolvers because of ongoing antigun legislation in states with large Jewish populations. Revolvers may be easier to get than semiautomatic pistols in those states. I’ve also added information about defensive drills, dry fire practice, a brief discussion of the use of deadly force in America, expanded the discussion of mindset, added a section about performing an area study, added a section on communications, and added an appendix about putting together a sustainment/get-home/bugout bag.

Guns for Jews v5.0.

Yom Hashoah 2025

Without arms, "Never Again" is a mere plea. It should be a warning. See my PDF: Guns for Jews.

High Standard Sentinel R-108

This week I picked up another snub, this time a High Standard Sentinel R-108 in .22LR with a 2.4" barrel. It was made sometime between 1967 and the mid-1970s. I'd been watching it for awhile on Gunbroker. It had failed to garner any bids through a couple auction cycles so I was able to win it for the minimum bid of $329. (Yeah, they used to be a lot cheaper. Like everything else, prices went through the roof during COVID and never came back down.)

This is my second Sentinel. I've written about my first one previously. A few years ago I bought a nickeled R-101 with a 3" barrel. It sold me on the basic design, which is a lightweight, aluminum-framed DA revolver that holds 9 rounds in the cylinder, which is just a hair larger in diameter than that of a S&W J-Frame.

Unlike the R-101 which has a one piece grip, the R-108 has a more conventional two piece grip. Also, it has a spring loaded ejector. The R-101's ejector was not spring loaded as a cost saving measure, but due to customer demand HS introduced that feature with the R-102.

The R-108 was definitely used but well cared for. It had a bit of crud on it but it cleaned up quickly. It even came with the original box and papers.

Overall, the HS feels a bit closer in size to a Colt D-Frame than a J-Frame. Here it is with a 1974 Colt Detective Special.

And next to my 1990s-vintage S&W Model 632 Airweight:

The SA trigger is good while the DA is heavy, but smooth. The trigger itself is grooved which is not ideal for DA shooting. I took the edge off the top of the serrations on my R-101 and plan to do the same to the R-108.

The sights on these are much better than most snubs. The front blade is wide and easy to pick up while the rear is drift adjustable, not just a groove in the topstrap.

My primary snubs for carry will remain my old S&W Model 632 Airweight and a Colt Detective Special, but the R-108 will make a fun plinker and a light recoiling gun for if/when I need that, as I have in the past due to thumb surgery. In that case it will be stoked with either CCI Stingers or Federal Punch.

Lee TL314-90-SWC Mold

After having good luck with the Lee TL358-158 mold in casting bullets for .38 Special, I recently picked up a TL314-90-SWC mold to use for my .32 caliber revolvers. The weather was nice today so I decided to break it in.

Waiting for the lead to melt:

I used dead soft lead. I won't be pushing these very fast in .32 S&W Long, .32 H&R Mag, or .32-20.

Here's one of the bullets from the new mold along with one cast in my TL358-158 mold, which is already lubed with Lee Liquid Alox:

This bullet is a little pointer than I'd like. I'd rather it have a wider meplat like the .38 caliber bullet but for plinking or paper punching it'll be fine.

The new mold was especially easy to cast with. The bullets dropped freely from the cavities with at most one rap with a mallet on the bolt holding the handles together.

8-Round Tuff Strips

Bianchi Speed Strips and their near-clones, the Tuff Products Quickstrips are a popular option for people who CCW a revolver to carry reloads. Being flat, they are easier to carry concealed than a speed loader.

Quickstrips are available for a variety of calibers and also in versions that carry 8 rounds. These have an advantage even if you're carrying a 6 shot revolver. This is my S&W 632 Airweight in .32 H&R Magnum.

As you can see, this allows you to space out the rounds in the strip to make loading 2 rounds at a time easier.

Incidentally, I don't carry a reload with the expectation I'd ever need it during a fight. Rather, it means that if I do have to defend myself with the gun and survive, I can remain armed afterwards.

The ammo is .32 H&R Magnum 98 grain powder coated wadcutters loaded by High Desert Cartridge. HDC says it's specced for the new S&W Ultra Carry revolvers in .32 H&R with a 1-7/8" barrel, which is the same as my older gun. I put just shy of a 50 round box through the gun yesterday and while I didn't chronograph it, I found it very clean shooting and accurate. It's my new carry load for this piece.

Roscoes at the Range

Yesterday I got out to do some shooting with a friend.

Top to bottom:

• 1974 Colt Detective Special in .38 Special I picked up about a week and a half ago.
• Early/mid-1990s S&W 632 Airweight in .32 H&R Magnum that was a gift from my dad several years ago.
• My friend's Charter Arms Professional in .32 H&R Mag.

I ran a couple different handloads through the Colt. Both were loaded with Lee TL358-158 cast semiwadcutters in mixed brass. The first batch were over 3.8 grains of HP-38 while the second batch were over 3.5 grains of Titegroup. In a medium frame gun like a S&W Model 10 these are very mild. They jump a bit more in a compact snub but remained controllable, especially the Titegroup loads.

First 18 shots with the Colt, with the HP-38 ammo, fired 2 hands, double action, from about 10 yards:

This is a great little gun. Colt should reintroduce it now that they've got back into wheelguns.

Next up was the Airweight. The last time I had it out I had several light strikes due to a reduced power hammer spring I'd installed. Before trying it again I put a 9.5 lb. Wolff hammer spring in it, which is actually a pound heavier than stock. This time it ran flawlessly

18 rounds from 10 yards, shooting .32 H&R Magnum 98 grain wadcutter rounds from High Desert Cartridge, which will be my new carry load. HDC uses powder coated bullets in this load and it burned very cleanly.

The Charter Arms Professional was bought by my friend around 2019. It was an inexpensive revolver but we've been impressed with it for the cost (about $300 at the time). It's a 7 shooter comparable in size to a Colt D-Frame (e.g., the Detective Special). He spent a lot of time working on the action and it's extremely smooth.

Another gun I brought out was my S&W Model 28-2 Highway Patrolman. This is an N-Frame .357 Magnum. I've owned it since the late 90s, when I traded an Astra A-75 towards it. If I remember correctly, the big Smith was priced at $250.

It's been ages since I've fired full house .357s from a revolver so we put 20 rounds of Federal American Eagle .357 158 grain JSPs through it. This is a screen cap from a video showing the gun in full recoil. In contrast, shooting the .38 Specials I had with me was a very mild experience due to the gun's 41 oz. weight.

The Model 28 is fitted with Thai Magnas and a grip adapter from BK Grips.

Aside from the wheelguns I also ran some rounds through my 2nd generation Keltec P32. I found that it dislikes the Fiocchi and Aguila FMJ I had on hand, giving me at least one failure to eject per magazine. My friend gave me some PPU .32 ACP FMJ with which it functioned 100% through two mags. The PPU also functions 100% in his Gen 1 P32, so we're going to split a case.

Prickly Jews

As an early Gen Xer closing in on 60 and a Jew, I've heard, "Never Again" my entire life. Jews in the West have invoked Never Again as a spell against persecution. Speaking as an American what I've seen is that most of my fellow Jewish Americans have thought as long as they remembered the horrors of the Holocaust and chanted Never Again, we'd be protected.

As we saw on October 7, 2023 that was a lie. Words are impotent unless you are willing to back them up with a willingness to fight.

Jews in the US are fortunate in that we have the right to keep and bear arms enshrined in the Constitution. Some states infringe upon that right, but even on those it exists and Jews there are not as helpless as those in most of the rest of the world.

The late gun writer Walt Rauch, who I was privileged to know, classed people into three basic groups:

• Sheep
• Wolves
• Prickly People

The sheep and wolves should be self-explanatory. By "Prickly People," Walt meant people who did not seek to hurt others but at the same time maintained the skill and arms necessary to defend themselves against the wolves. Think of a porcupine.

More recently Jordan Peterson has noted that,  "A harmless man is not a good man. A good man is a very, very dangerous man who has that under voluntary control."

Walt's Prickly People fall into the same category as Peterson's Dangerous Man.

Jews need to be Prickly People. We'll leave you alone, but mess around with us and you will find out to your detriment that doing so was a bad idea.

Becoming a Prickly Jew doesn't happen overnight and may require something of an attitude adjustment.

First, be proud of being a Jew. If someone tries to slur you as a Jew or Zionist, embrace it, don't shrink from that.

Develop skills that allow you to be dangerous to modern day Nazis and to take care of yourself and loved ones:

• Physical fitness.
• First aid and trauma care.
• Hand-to-hand fighting.
• Situational awareness.
• Marksmanship and firearms safety. (If you haven't already, check out my PDF ebook Guns for Jews.)

A political comment:

Elections have consequences. If you vote for candidates who restrict your right to self defense and bear arms, and who safeguard the people who attack Jews, you are perpetuating the problem.

Never Again is now. Become a Prickly Jew.

Quick Strips for .410 Shells

Most revolver shooters are familiar with Bianchi Speed Strips and the similar Tuff Products Quick Strip for carrying spare ammunition. Well, the .44/.45 size Quick Strips also work for .410 shells:

While this takes up more room than the 5-round box, it's easier to handle as a unit especially if you're wearing gloves.

Rossi .410 Single Shot

A few weeks ago I got to shoot an old H&R folding .410 shotgun that belongs to a friend, and instantly got a bad case of the wants. I offered to buy it from him but he's not selling, and I can't blame him. He owns some property and it would be a perfect piece for taking care of varmints in his garden or to tote while he's walking his land.

So, I got to looking for a .410 break barrel on Gunbroker. I lost an auction for a nearly mint condition Stevens 94 but found a gently used Rossi SS4112811. I picked it up from my FFL a couple days ago and it's in even better shape than described in the listing. It's basically new old stock. The only thing that was missing was the OEM cable lock, which is no loss IMHO. This model is no longer listed on Rossi's website.

The barrel is 28" long with a modified choke, which is preferable for my needs to the full choke most .410s have. I think, anyway. I need to pattern it.

The gun weighs about 3.8 lbs. It feels like a toy but it means that you can carry it all day.

Rossi's method of takedown is good. The forearm is held on by the same screw which the front sling swivel is attached to. It's captured so it can't be lost.

Like the H&R single shots made in the past several decades the Rossi has a transfer bar, allowing it to be safely carried loaded with the hammer down. It also has a manual hammer blocking safety mounted on the left side of the receiver. At first my reaction was to regard this as superflous but it will allow me to hunt with the gun cocked, much as one would with a hammerless double or a pump gun. I'm left handed so the safety is easy to push off with my trigger finger. A righty could use his thumb, but for once this is a gun feature that's actually more southpaw-friendly.

The plastic furniture is hollow, which got me thinking about using it to store emergency supplies. There's plenty of room in the stock to hold a bore snake or maybe a collapsible cleaning rod, and a bottle of oil, or a ziplock bag with some shells. The forearm is hollow with reinforcing ribs. If I cut one out it could hold shells. I may just stash some fire starting gear in it.

Since the 2020 pandemic, .410 ammo has been scarce on gun shop shelves, and most of that seems to oriented for defensive use in Taurus Judge or S&W Governor revolvers. My FFL only had shells loaded with No.9 shot. However, I've been able to find a variety of .410 ammo online in both 2.5" and 3" length, and have acquired several boxes to experiment with, ranging from No.9s to No.4s to buck and slugs.

UPS should be bringing a stock cuff for ammo and a repro M1 Carbine sling today.

I'm also planning to fireform some .303 British empties into all-brass shells, using instructions posted elsewhere by @Outpost75. The gun closes on the .303 cases but it's a little tight so first I'll sand a thou or so off the case heads. I also have a box of Magtech 2.4" brass shells on the way from Ballistic Products along with suitable cards and wads. Next weekend there's a gun show and I'll try to pick up some Lil-Gun and/or H-110/W-296 to reload with. Apparently, 2400 is also good for reloading .410 but lately it's pretty much unobtanium. And I can always use the Holy Black.

I have several 12 and 20 gauge shotguns so this acquisition wasn't a need, but it should be fun to experiment with.

Mossberg 500 Home Defense Set Up

I've had this Mossberg 500 Mariner 12 gauge shotgun for close to 20 years. It's pretty much a dedicated home defense gun, although I did use it in one or two action matches over 10 years ago. Recently, I've done a few mods to make it more useful for me.

Closeup of the fiber optic front sight and left side of the accessory rail, which is symmetrical:

Closeup of the tail switch of the Inforce weapon light, with the lockout flipped up to prevent accidental activation:

HPG stock cuff:

When choosing these modifications, I kept Greg Ellifritz's comments in these posts in mind:

• https://www.activeresponsetraining.net/shotguns-for-home-protection
• https://www.activeresponsetraining.net/home-defense-shotgun-questions-answered

So, after a couple different configurations over the years, I think I've settled on my final set up:

• Magpul SGA stock, set to my length of pull using spacers. Five extra rounds are kept in a Hill People Gear stock cuff. I also added a QD sling swivel stud to the stock.
• A Hi Viz clamp on fiber optic front sight, which much more visible and taller than the factory bead. This corrected the high point of impact with the factory bead.
• Defender Tactical Mini-Pro Lifer and Cartridge Arrestor System, so I can shoot 1.75" mini shells.
• CVLIFE 1.25" quickly adjustable rifle sling.
• CDM Gear ROC-12 accessory rail.
• Inforce WML 400 lumen weapon light mounted so I can activate it using my right thumb (I'm left handed).

I've been wanting to try out 1.75" mini shells due to their reduced recoil and because you can load more in the tube magazine. Mossberg shotguns are easily modified to run with the mini shells with adapters from either Op Sol or Defender Tactical.

Even if I keep the gun loaded with Federal 2.75" 00 Flitecontrol for now, the mini shell adaptor gives me the ability to use reduced recoil loads when I'm older. With 2.75" shells the Mossberg's capacity is 6 +1, but with mini shells it's 9 + 1.

Since I no longer have any small children in the house, the gun is kept in a closet "cruiser ready," i.e., full magazine, empty chamber, bolt locked forward.

Set up this way, the Mossberg will handle any home defense situation I can reasonably think of in my suburban location.

Updated Version of Guns for Jews Available

Yesterday I relased v4.0 of my free e-book, Guns for Jews.

Version 4.0 adds a new and extensive section about shotguns. Earlier versions of this text downplayed shotguns but I came to the realization that because of gun control laws where most Jewish Americans live, a shotgun may be the best gun they can buy for defense. For those of us who can readily get handguns or modern rifles, shotguns are great backups.

In v4.0, there’s also a new appendix with tips for helping to secure your home.

Please feel free to forward this link and share widely.

Click here to download it.

Zastava ZPAP92 AK Pistol

Shortly before the election I ordered a Zastava ZPAP92 Kalashnikov pistol from a Gunbroker seller and had it shipped to a local FFL to handle the transfer. I decided to pull the trigger on it (sorry) because if Harris had won, she'd be more able to mess with acquiring such a gun down the road since POTUS has more leeway to affect imports than domestically produced firearms.

As we now know, the American people resoundingly rejected her flavor of Marxism, so I now consider it a celebratory purchase.

The gun is essentially a "pistol" version of a "Krink," chambered for 7.62x39 with a 10" barrel.

This ZPAP is fitted with "Serbian red" wood furniture and an SB Tactical TF1913 brace attached to a Picatinny rail attached to the rear trunnion.

It came with a single 30 round polymer magazine with metal reinforced locking lugs. Like other mags from the former Yugoslavia it has a bolt hold-open follower, which I'm not really a fan of. Most of my shooting with the gun so far was with Hungarian 20 round "tanker" mags.

A nice feature is that the safety selector has a notch in it for use as a bolt hold-open. It's a little awkward to use but simple and works.

The receiver cover is hinged at the front, with a two-leaf open rear sight graduated for 200M and 400M mounted to it. There's a short section of Picatinny rail mounted between the rear sight and the hinge.

The front sight base has left hand 26mm thread, instead of the more common 24.5mm threads. It's fitted with a Krink-style booster.

Because the short barrel has a lot of blast I also picked up a Midwest Industries Blast Can, which is designed to redirect blast and flash downrange.

Yesterday I put 80 rounds of Vympel 7.62x39 through the gun for a basic function check. As expected it ran perfectly, but shot about 8" low at 15 yards. I used the front sight adjustment tool from an AK cleaning kit to raise the point of impact, but I will do a final zero at 50 yards.

I also tried both the Krink booster and the Blast Can to see if there was any difference from the shooter's perspective. I didn't notice much of a difference. I'll try them side by side again but for now I have the booster on the gun.

The Vympel ammo has corrosive primers so I wanted to do a basic cleaning before packing up. So, I hosed everything down with DRNCH (pronounced "dirnch"), which is imported by Zastava USA from Serbia. It's a CLP type aerosol cleaner with a mild smell. I don't know if it's specifically rated to clean corrosive primer residue, but if that residue is saturated with oil it won't be able to absorb atmospheric moisture to cause rust. I'll do a thorough cleaning today.

So why a Krink? Because:

The bag is a Sarma assault pack, which is a knock-off of a Maxpedition bag.

Going forward I need to zero it at 50 yards and put some kind of a dot sight on it, and run a pile of ammo through it.

Prvi Partisan Stars and Stripes 12 Gauge 2.75" 9-Pellet 00 Buckshot

Yesterday I patterned some Prvi Partisan Stars and Strips 12 gauge 2.75" 9-pellet 00 buckshot. It's made for Prvi in Italy by Cheddite. I shot them through my Mossberg 500 Mariner pump action shotgun, which has an 18" cylinder bore barrel with a bead sight. It also wears a Magpul SGA buttstock setup for my short length of pull.

With the factory bead the gun shot a little high, so last week I added a Hi Viz clamp on fiber optic front sight that clamps onto the barrel. It has a notch at the front that mates with the factory bead and keeps it from rotating. It just clamps onto the barrel but is tight enough that I have no concern it will come loose.

Aside from better visibility, the Hi Viz bead lowered the point of impact so that it coincides with my point of aim out to at least 20 yards.

Anyway, here are the patterns with the Prvi buckshot.

5 yards:

10 yards:

Two rounds at 20 yards:

The shells I normally keep loaded in the Mossberg for home defense are Federal reduced recoil 2.75" 00 buckshot in Flitecontrol wads. At about 12 yards that ammo patterns about what the Prvi did at 5 yards, and at 25 yards will keep all 9 pellets on a paper dinner plate.

While the Federal Flitecontrol patterns much tighter than the Prvi, it's a lot more expensive which may be important for people on lower incomes. Regardless of cost, the Prvi patterns well enough for inside the home engagements. A 10 yard (30 feet) shot would be a long shot inside most homes.

Indeed, at typical inside the home range, the wider patterning Prvi buckshot may cause more severe wounds to an assailant than Flitecontrol, due to the more dispersed wound channels.

The 5 and 10 yard patterns also demonstrate the necessity for aiming a shotgun, in contrast to the myth of pointing it in the general direction of a threat.

How to Report Election Fraud

If we work together, we can make this election too big to rig!

Virtually all of us have the tools to report election interference, voter intimidation, and illegal voting in near real-time: smartphones with Internet access and the X (Twitter) service. If we use them, it will be much more difficult for the Democrats to steal this election.

Unlike 2020, we have a major platform on which to report election shenanigans, thanks to

@elonmusk

. We saw the effectiveness of this earlier this week when polls in Bucks County, PA were shut down early during early voting. Because it got reported on X, a lawsuit was filed and the court issued an order to extend early voting through Friday, November 1st. That got us a couple more days of early voting!

We also have a better ground game due to people like

@ScottPresler

in Pennsylvania. Scott worked his ass off getting voters registered and mainly due to him, Bucks and Luzerne Counties flipped from blue to red. He's also taken to task misbehaving county boards of electors.

Additionally, the RNC is now chaired by

@LaraLeaTrump

, not Rona (Romney) McDaniel.

First, join the X Election Integrity Community:

https://x.com/i/communities/1848518910653415584

If you see any irregularities at your polling place do your best to gather evidence:

• Take pictures and or video.
• If there's a vehicle involved, e.g., dropping off boxes of ballots, get a picture of the license plate.
• Report your findings to the X Election Integrity Community.
• Tag
  @ScottPresler
  (if you're in PA),
  @GOP
  ,
  @RobertKennedyJr
  ,
  @realDonaldTrump
  ,
  @TuckerCarlson
  ,
  @LaraLeaTrump
  and any other large pro-Trump account on X.
• Report what you've see to your state's Department of State or elections commission. Here are links for the swing states:
• PA:
  https://www.pa.gov/en/agencies/vote.html
• NC:
  https://www.ncsbe.gov/about-elections/election-security/investigations-division
• MI:
  https://www.michigan.gov/sos/report-fraud
• WI:
  https://elections.wi.gov/elections/election-security-integrity/election-complaints-concerns
• NV:
  https://www.nvsos.gov/sos/elections/election-information/report-potential-election-law-violation
• GA:
  https://law.georgia.gov/resources/election-fraud-complaint-hotline

Please repost this for a wider audience.

Let's go!

#election

#electionfraud

#CitizenJournalists

50% off Anker SOLIX C1000 Portable Power Station

  If you are in need of a portable power station with a built-in inverter, this Anker unit is 50% off today at Amazon.

https://amzn.to/4eRh0Co

New Sheath for the Cattaraugus 225Q Quartermaster Knife

The replica sheath that I ordered from eBay seller "banddinsidethegoldmine" arrived today. It's a pretty close replica of the original sheaths. Here's a pic with the knife in the replica sheath next to the original that it came with. After I took the pic I applied some neatsfoot oil, which darkened it a bit, as expected.

The seller also has right handed sheaths, but since I'm left handed I stuck with the historically correct lefty sheath.

Cattaraugus 225Q "Quartermaster" Knife

Last week I started reading up on the Cattaruagus 225Q "Quartermaster" knives that were produced for the US military during World War 2. My interest was piqued so I went online looking for one as a user.

Up until fairly recently they were available for $50 or less but as with everything else, prices have gone up. I found this one on eBay and was able to get it for $90 + tax and shipping. It arrived today.

For a knife made about 80 years ago it's in extremely nice shape. The carbon blade is free from serious corrosion or pitting and shows signs of only light use. It came with a nice, sharp edge, too.

The stacked leather washer handle is also in very nice condition. It bears the typical random grooves found on my 225Qs, intended to enhance one's grip. The pommel is tight and doesn't show any signs of being used as a hammer. Overall the hilt is tight. I've applied a few light coats of Fiebing's 100% neatsfoot oil and the washers have soaked it up. I'll add some more and then give it a coat of Sno-Seal, which is mostly beeswax.

On the other hand, the sheath is showing its age and for that reason I have a replica on the way for actual use. I've given it a couple light coats of neatsfoot oil and like the knife's handle, it's drinking up the oil.

The 225Q has a 6" blade with a swedge on the back of the tip, but it's not sharpened. The blade is 3/16" thick at the spine and a hair under 1.3" wide. The small guard shouldn't get in the way of use in woodcraft or dressing game.

The blade shape is very similar to my Varusteleka Terävä Jääkäripuukko 140, which I've used to process a few deer. I'd expect the Cattaruagus to perform similarly to the Finnish knife.

For size references, here's the Cattaraugus flanked by a Mora Kansbol and a Case Stockman.

As a contemporary of the USN Mk.2 fighting knife, AKA the "Kabar," it invites a comparison. The 225Q's blade is an inch shorter but a little thicker. I like the feel much better than the more famous Kabar. Likewise, the blade geometry on the 225Q makes it a better field knife than the later USAF Aircrew Survival Knife, AKA the "bolt knife". (Having used a USAF knife in the field, I am not a fan of it.)

I'm looking forward to taking this knife into the woods and using as it was intended to be.

First Range Trip with the Rector Rifle

I took the Rector rifle to the range today.

My load was a .389 ball in a 0.018" pillow ticking patch lubed with Hoppe's No.9 BP Lube and Bore Cleaner, on top of 50 grains of Goex 3Fg. This seated easily with only thumb pressure in the muzzle. It shot several inches high at 50 yards from the bench but unfortunately did not group well. I think it's too loose a patch/ball combination.

So I decided to try a thicker patch on my 12th shot. I had some 0.020" patch material with me. I loaded it up and it was noticeably more snug. However, on this shot, the cleanout screw blew out.

The screw didn't go far, landing on the shooting bench. This obviously put an end to shooting the rifle for the day so I cleaned it up and put it away.

After getting home and inspecting the screw closely it looks like the threads stripped out. I think what happened is that was undersized and let go with the higher pressure with the tighter patch.

It looks like I can retap the hole for the cleanout screw hole to accept a 10-32 screw to get the gun back into shooting condition.

Aside from being a bit undersized, the .389 balls didn't look so great. I've had excellent results from Rush Creek balls previously but these didn't look good. I got a Lee .390 mold in and will cast up a bunch to try.

If I can't get the rifle grouping well I'll probably send the barrel to Bobby Hoyt and have it rebored to .45.

Anyway, aside from the Rector rifle I also brought my Numrich Arms H&A Heritage Model underhammer .45. I've always shot .440 balls from it since that what my dad used when he taught me to shoot with it. I decided to try .433 balls for easier loading because I want to shoot it from woods walks without using a mallet to start the balls. With the .433 balls in ticking over 50 grains of Goex 3Fg, all the holes were touching from the 50 yard bench. After I got home I ordered a Lee .433 mold.

After shooting that group I adjusted the sights so POA = POI at 50 yards.

A Percussion Target Rifle by J.H. Rector

I picked up this original 19th Century target rifle via trade yesterday at Dixon's. The asking price was $850.

From what I've been able to determine, J.H. Rector was active in Syracuse 1845 - 1855, and later moved to Buffalo, NY with a partner. My SWAG is that it was built sometime around 1850.

The .40 caliber barrel is 29.5" long and 1" across the flats. It's held to the stock with a single key. It's rifled with 6 grooves although I haven't checked the twist rate yet. The best thing, is that it's in excellent condition. It had some surface rust in the bore which cleaned up nicely with Hoppe's No.9 and elbow grease. There's no significant pitting.It has a hooked breech, but it's not a patent breech. This is an ideal setup IMO. I borescoped it today and this is the breech face. You can see where the flash channel enters the barrel:

The barrel is marked "J.H. Rector Syracuse" with the serial number. It's also marked "Cut by E.G. Davies".

The nipple is .265" x 28 and in good shape but has a larger hole than I'd like. As it turns out Track carries this size as "oversize" nipples, so I ordered a couple.

A closeup of the lock, which is marked "A.T Russel" (only one L):

A sharp eye will see that the hammer nose is damaged, likely from corrosion. I measured its diameter and I may be able to use the neck of a .44-40 case soldered on as repair.

Very clean inside. It's fitted with a fly, although that's not strictly necessary since it doesn't have set triggers.

It holds solid at full and half cock.

The tang is drilled and tapped for a lollipop-style peep sight, which is missing. Once I figure out the thread size I'll look into making a replacement.

All the furniture is iron (tested with a magnet) except for the brass inlays on both sides of the butt.

That small crack at the heel, along with a small chip behind the tang, along with a few dents are the only stock damage.

The business end:

The ramrod appears to be original or a period replacement. The muzzle end is plain but the bottom is fitted with a reversible tow worm.

The gun weighs 9.1 lbs. on my bathroom scale and 46.5" long overall.

For the past few months I've been casually looking for a shootable 19th Century percussion rifle on Gunbroker and Guns International. So, when I saw this on the rack at Dixon's I found it hard to resist.

It's in fantastic shape for a gun that's potentially 175 - 180 years old. I plan to shoot it. Along with the gun I got a bag of .389" balls and have a Lee .390 mold on the way from Track of the Wolf.

Incidentally, if you search for 19th Century percussion rifles you'll find a lot of them that resemble this one. By the last few decades of the century much of the country was settled so this style was developed for target shooting, not taking large game or fighting. Many gunsmiths along the Eastern seaboard were turning out very high quality guns of this type. You can see some of them in Ned Roberts' The Muzzleloading Caplock Rifle, which is pretty much the Bible for percussion rifles.